hey...don't look at me....not my design idea............looks good on your porch.......
my dog Rupert looks like I feel on Sat night....
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ecom |
Feb 2009 class - Great Lakes |
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hey...don't look at me....not my design idea............looks good on your porch.......
my dog Rupert looks like I feel on Sat night....
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trip reilly |
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great looks, ray ! is that all reflector ?
tr |
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ecom |
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no. the coffee room floor is all RFR/PT1, but the gold slate (tusc*n trowel), the green seamless, the brown seamless square, and the brass seamless rectangle
were the only four PT1/RFR boards.
the stamped overlays and troweled overlays all had RFR (on tea spoon per quart of ready to use UCS) in the ultrastone. No acid stain used on any of those boards. All integral color and UltraStone water based stain. Only three boards used the Dye - dark colored troweled board with wide grout borders and corner squares, and both the troweled wood grain jobs used Dye in the sealer to shift color. |
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Accent Resurfacing |
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Please let me know how you do the wood grain look.
Ethan |
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ecom |
thats broom finish wood plank | #4 | ||
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Broom it, use a 6" plastic putty knive (fiber taped to a handle) to knock it down. Scribe planks in next day.
That Feb class wood board came out like paneling. The Mar class board came out better, getting those pics from Mick's camera and will post tomorrow. But I am working on another one...since you mentioned it... Black skim coat, des beige PC and syp yellow thin finish for wood, scribed the panels and knots at 4 hours - hard enough to walk on, soft enough to scribe easy. PT1 tight with a magic trowel tinted gray with a little Brass (2 teas spoons per gall at 8 mils), then fauxed em up with Hydra next day, and these pics are with wet AUS-G with heavy shark grip, will rough up a little and clear with another coat tonight, and light sand tomorrow to satin the finish up. Trying to maintain a texture and distressed look of an old mill wood plank floor. Figured a course or two of scribed cobblestone brick between plank areas would look natural and provide an area to broom from tape-line to tape-line. Yeah, I shouldn't have messed around with the large bolts - stupid romper room move... The small nail/bolt holes are the way to go.
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DCS Inc |
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Nice wood plank effect. I would tend to agree on the wood plugs as they tend to be a little over powering. Maybe a little lighter on the color. The one's
I've done I've just used the blunt end of a 16 penny nail to make indents. I was using thinner planks though. How do you make your faux knots? I use a
cheap painters knot maker but not with great results. I'm sure others would like to know your proceedure on the knots. gene ec-Indy
Last Edited By: DCS Inc 03/24/09 06:12 PM.
Edited 1 time.
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ecom |
finish board | #6 | ||
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yeah, the large bolts were a failed experiment.
Stay small and realistic, like the two on the left:
Here's the finished pics, can't show the client this one because of the romper room bolt show, and my HS antiquing is too dark and bold, need to tone it down .... but am working another one now, black thin finish went down today for that...this next one (second try is always better isn't it?) will be the one. The key to the knots is scribing - with a tile scribe - 2-6 hours after the "wood" coat goes down. When the TFO is hard enough to support weight (socks with obligatory plastic grocery bags over them) but soft enough to scribe real easy. Just scribed knots while she was nice and soft then faux'd them out darker at each end with the HS after the initial thin tinted PT1 coat. One knot I didn't color out at each end looks real fake to me, the key is fading in the HS at each end to blend it into the plank.
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