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Monolithic pour w/2 sinks - concerns

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Boulder	Monolithic pour w/2 sinks - concerns		Lead	[-]
Posts: 3 07/05/09 04:53 AM	Tags : finish, mix, sink, transport, form, mold, aggregate, glass like, formica I am trying to get a glass like finish. I don't really want to see any aggregate, just maybe some of the sand specs. I would like to have a monolithic pour incorporating two sinks. My main concerns are: 1. bug hole even though I plan on vibrating, I know there will be a few. And no matter what slurry mix you use, the color is never perfect. 2. Since I plan on using integral Barrel Sinks flipping this over to wet sand is and finish the top off. 3. Transporting it upstairs. I really would like to build it in one piece and it is going to be 91" x 22" and I was planning on 2" thick, with 2 sinks. Has anyone thought of: 1. Making the mold out of formica laminated plywood? 2. Spay on a face coat of about 1/8th inch? 3. Back fill to 1.5 - 2.5 inches (your desired depth) I think this may help solve some of the bug hole problems. Any advice/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Liquid Rock Innovations	Countertops	#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1 07/07/09 11:00 PM	Not sure what your asking Boulder, what products are you using, what aggregate, what type of support structure, the sinks have to be dry packed or GFRC you can't vibrate
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Boulder		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5 07/08/09 04:41 AM	I have been planning on using the buddy rhodes mix. 1. Build a mold out of fomica laminated plywood w/ t fiberglass sink molds. 2 Spray on coat to be BR Mix (sifted with a 1/16" scrren) Sprayed on with a Spray Texture Hoppers to a 1/8" depth. 3. Place laddur wire for reinforcement. 4. Use BR Mix loaded with heavy fiber and back fill the mold to the full 2" depth. 5. Wait 2 days, demold and flip. 6. 5-6 days later polish, starting w 400 grit and going upto 3000 grit. Concerns: I am trying to avoid any bugholes as much as possible because they NEVER match since I amtrying to get a glass like finish showing little or no aggregate. Transporting this top since it will be 8 ft long. Actuall not worried about the short truck ride. Only the move up a flight and a half of stairs with a 90 degree bend in the staircase.
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ECOV LLC	My back hurts	#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 134 07/08/09 09:23 PM	Boulder, It sounds like you have a plan and a sample will let you know if it will give the look that you are trying to get. In the quick math an 8' x 2' x 2" solid top will weigh pretty close to 400 pounds (25# per sq') so the flight of stairs and the corner in the stairs will be a challenge. Using melamine board in your forming will help with a smooth face, I have never tried to spray the BR mix or load it heavy with fiber but I know that Gene Dean has done a similar application with EC products. He is doing a lighter weight applicaton that is being called EFRC (Elite Crete Fiber Reinforced Concrete) and would help with your weight issue and with packing around the sink molds. He is DCS Inc on this board if you want to contact him. I wouldn't wait 2 days to demould, I like more even drying to eliminate the possibility of curling but this is your parade. Let us know how the samples are going. Dave Elite Crete of the Ohio Valley www.elitecreteohiovalley.com dave.sharamitaro@elitecrete.com I'm not a doctor. . . . . I just play one on concrete.
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Liquid Rock Innovations		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 2 07/09/09 12:46 AM	Boulder, sounds like your BR, trained? if you have the means use plexi as your surface "cut exact to your surface". Build your walls around top surface with melamine. (melamine has texture so it always needs polishing). You can also use a wet paint brush "very lightly" on the back of your face coat to get rid of the bug holes. Check with DCS Inc for ideas, he seems to be the God Father, Im new to the flooring gig but I love EC product line !! Also if you pop the mold and its glass start 1500 no need to go 400.
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DCS Inc		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 2256 07/09/09 11:21 PM Moderaor in training	Guys, I just find ways to make more money with our products. I had granicrap come into my neck of the woods so I found a way to do counter top overlays. I've gotten many calls for out door kitchens, sitting walls, fireplace surrounds, so I figured out how to use our products to pour tops and do vertical apps. I've used the brand name stuff and all your paying for is the name with a little instruction. Not to put these guys down because they have some good training..... well, some of them. Anyway, I've been in concrete a long time and there's not too much I haven't done. Boulder, Liquid is giving you good advise as I feel he's been doing tops for a while. As far as using Rhodes stuff after pulling the sands out.... haven't a clue. gene Last Edited By: DCS Inc 07/10/09 07:14 AM. Edited 1 time.
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